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Witches of Mexico
You won't find any broomsticks or pointy hats in
southern Mexico, but you will find witches everywhere. The city of Catemaco is
the self-styled witchcraft capital. Find out why!
Both religion and supernatural are weaved into the fabric of everyday
life in Catemaco, Mexico. Here witchcraft is alive and well. Some people believe
the witches hold great power. For centuries beliefs here have simmered in
a crucible of influences. Infused with Catholicism and age-old ideas about the
supernatural, there's a duality here, present even on the street corners.
Catemaco calls itself the witchcraft capital of Mexico. Brujas or witches have
charmed their way onto signs and billboards throughout the town. Magical
practices existed here before Mexico was even called Mexico and long before
Catholicism arrived. Although today's witchcraft or Brujeria has been influenced
by western beliefs, it's still a fundamentally ancient art. Hoolia Gacia lives
in a village near Catemaco. People come to see her as they would the family
doctor or even the family therapist.
I cure many spiritual even physical things. If you have a cold, I can take care
of it. If you have a bad hip, I bandage it.
This nineteen-year-old has headaches. She sometimes finds relief with Hoolia,
who performs a spiritual cleansing Olympia. Brujas may also prescribe
botanical remedies, following the tradition of ancient evil-killers and
medicine men. Though many brujas practice black magic, Hoolia says she practices
only white magic for good things. She calls for Saint Carmen, the ancient saint
of Catemaco. Brujas all say they invoke higher powers, but each has a style that
is unique. Many brujas brush their clients with pungent liquids as part of
Olympia. Hoolia sweeps the remedy over Lauer with leaves of sweet basil. The egg
is another common device. Hoolia passes it over Lauer to draw out the bad
energy. Once done, she cracks the egg and reads the message inside. The egg
white represents the spirit, the yolk is the body. Hoolia makes her diagnosis.
Here are the headaches that you get. Look, here they are. Can you see it?
Underneath it it's clean thank god. When you're at home you're upset, then you
go out and it gets worse 'cause you catch bad spirits.
For many Brujeria is ripe with contradictions. In part this mixture of light and
shadows can be explained by the fact that witchcraft has evolved here over
thousands of years. In the end, who can say what holds the power to move a human
heart? As long as souls are willing, it seems the brujas will continue to work
their magic in the town of Catemaco.
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( Oct 27 )
